Going on a tour to the DMZ (demilitarized zone) & JSA (joint-security area) is one of the top experiences you can have in Korea. Both the North and the South.
What is the DMZ?
Ironically enough, the DMZ is probably the most heavily militarized area in Korea. To visit the DMZ, you have to book a tour because you are not allowed to travel without a licensed guide.
As a quick introduction, the DMZ is a border barrier that divides the Korean Peninsula into North & South. It was created by agreement between North Korea, the People’s Republic of China and the United Nations in 1953.
My experience at the DMZ from the South
When I went to summer school in the summer of 2017, it was at the peak of tensions between North & South Korea. I remember a conversation we had with a Korea University student in class: we had to talk about our fears, and he listed ‘North Korea’ as his top fear.
South Korea is a great place to visit for the food, the fun, and the scenery. But sometimes we forget that the Korean War is technically still ongoing, and Korea is, well, still at war.
After that conversation, I read up & watched documentaries on the war. I finally booked a tour to DMZ and JSA with Changi Recommends in 2018.
Unfortunately, our JSA tour was cancelled at the last minute while we were already in Korea. This was due to newly added operations (for the removal of the mine) between North and South Korea!
We could only do the tour to DMZ, and got a full refund for JSA. Very disappointing!
Our tour bus picked us up in the early morning, and then drove for less than an hour to Paju, which is one of the South Korean cities closest to the North (Seoul is only 53km from the North!)
We had a few passport checks by the military, who came onto the tour bus to take a good look. From what I know, they do not allow certain nationalities in the DMZ. Do confirm with your tour operator on that.
The bus drove slowly throughout the journey. Our Korean tour guide told us that along the road, there are still patches of land which potentially still have uncleared landmines. A red flag with a skull on it marks these uncleared landmines in DMZ.
She assured us that the road we were driving on was safe and totally clear of landmines – they just can’t ensure the same outside of that road.
Imjingak
Our first stop on the DMZ tour was Imjingak. The South had built Imjingak in 1972 hoping that someday unification between the North and the South would be possible.
The three-storied Imjingak is surrounded by Unification Park and North Korea Center.
Mangbaedan Alter stands opposite Imjingak, which is where South Koreans separated from their families in the North visit perform ancestral rites. They do so by bowing toward their hometowns every New Year’s Day and Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving).
The Bridge of Freedom, which South Koreans crossed when they came back from North Korea after the signing of the Armistice Agreement, stands behind Mangbaedan Alter.
The then-functioning Gyeongui Railway Line left behind rails and cross-ties, which now provide a glimpse into the past.
The names indicated on the cross-tie were the major stations of the then functioning Gyeongui Railway Line.
Apparently, works are underway to restore the railway.
This steam locomotive train served the Gyeongui Railway Line. However, it was derailed by bombs during the Korean War and has been left at the DMZ since then.
More than 1020 bullet shots and its bent wheels are a reflection of the cruel situation during the war.
Dorasan Observatory
Our next stop was Dorasan Observatory. Here, you can catch a glimpse of North Korean villages through binoculars.
Do note, however, that the village on the North Korean side is most likely a fake!
Our guide told us that as part of a friendly peace agreement, the North & South governments created villages for residents to stay near the border. However, while the one in the South is real, the one in North is a ghost town for people like to us to peer at.
Oh well.
Unfortunately we visited on a cloudy morning, so we couldn’t get a very good glimpse of North Korea.
My guide gave one good tip to differentiate between the North & the South: the South side has a lot of lush greenery, while the North is barren land. She didn’t explain why though.
Another unfortunate thing was that we went on a Tuesday. This was the day when tourists from China would take a boat to Paju to visit the DMZ.
If you want to avoid the terrible tourist crowds, don’t come on a Tuesday!!!
The 3rd Tunnel
After the North & South drew up the 38th parallel north and signed an armistice treaty to cease fire, the South Korean army discovered 4 infiltration tunnels. These tunnels linked North Korea to Seoul. North Korean soldiers intended to use these tunnels to infiltrate the South Korea’s capital from different directions.
My guide shared with us us a list of excuses that the North Koreans tried to explain the existence of the tunnels with.
Except for the 1st tunnel which is too small for tourists to visit, the 2nd, 3rd and 4th underground tunnels are open for tourists’ visit. The most popular one is the 3rd tunnel, and so that’s what we visited.
Before we went into the tunnel, the staff ushered us into a DMZ movie theater situated right next to it.
You will listen to an 8-minute movie explaning the 4 underground tunnels that were built by the North Korean soldiers. Certain parts are quite graphic and chilling, and it reminds you of how serious the Korean War is.
South Korea discovered this 3rd tunnel in 1978. Approximately 30,000 soldiers can move through it per hour! However, tourists can only get to walk through about 265m of the tunnel to get a glimpse and feel of it.
To get to the underground tunnel, we had to walk down a separate constructed pathway which is about 400m to bring you to the underground tunnel opening.
Unfortunately, photography and bags were not allowed inside the tunnel.
My guide said she does this tour 2 times a week but still never got used to walking through the tunnel. I finally understood what she meant when we got around to it.
It was hot, damp, and so short that you have to either squat or bend over. You have to wear a helmet as well – don’t ever take it off! – and I bumped my head twice on the ceiling because it was so short. I probably would have gotten a concussion if not for the helmet protecting my head.
Now the tough part is not over yet: have fun walking back up the pathway. Yes, uphill. Underground. In a hot, damp environment with barely any resting points. It’s the good workout you need from all that feasting in Korea.
Is it really that tough?
Well, there were a group of South Korean soldiers in there with us, and they were grunting and grumbling the whole way.
On the other hand, some elementary kids were having a whale of a time (cos they were short ya), and even said ‘hello’ to all the tourists. I waved at some of them and they waved back cheerfully – so cute!
Dorasan Station
This was our last stop on the DMZ tour.
Dorasan Train Station is a railway station situated on the Gyeongui Line, once connecting North and South Korea. It was restored & opened in 2002.
In 2007, it was used to transport goods to and fro North and South Korea. However, they ceased railway operations in 2008 due to some conflict.
However, there is a DMZ train that runs from Seoul to Dorasan station. The round train trip operates once a day daily during weekdays and twice daily during the weekends.
They grow a lot of organic produce in the DMZ because the soil here is apparently the most fertile in the whole of Korea.
You can purchase soybean chocolates made from soybeans grown in DMZ – can’t find them anywhere else!
With that, our tour came to an end.
Was it worth going on the DMZ tour?
Personally, I thought the tour was a very good learning journey. However, I was left with many mixed feelings as we headed back to Seoul.
As an outsider, I don’t think I can comment on whether unification (some call it reunification) will happen, whether it is good for both sides.
I do know, however, that the Korean War is very tragic, that there are families who remain separated, and that there are people still suffering today from the war.
All in all, I do hope that the Koreans find true closure and peace.
Related Posts:
- Road 1100 – The best winter views in Jeju!
- The National Museum of Korea: free admission for all!
- Jjajangmyeon Museum: a look into Chinese cuisine in Korea
FAQ: DMZ Tour (Imjingak, Dorasan Observatory, 3rd Tunnel & Dorasan Station)
What to know before visiting the Korean Demilitarized Zone from Seoul.
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